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words Johanna Agerman

Moncler is turning its quilted sports jackets into artful fashion items with the help of womenswear designer Giambattista Valli, well-known for his use of absurd proportions. The sportswear label's new line is called Gamme Rouge, and for the winter 09 collection Valli makes use of the volume and bulge caused by the multi-layered, quilted fabric, creating shapes that swathe the body. Made in black, white and red duchesse satins and silks, sometimes with net and lace overlays, they are reminiscent of ceremonial cloaks. The recently launched spring/summer collection proves that Moncler isn't only to be considered for winter sports. Here Valli uses pleated organza and embossed jacquard in subtle shades, creating cocoon-like structures in a curious mix inspired by sea creatures and Madame de Pompadour.

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