Last Breath Bruises 21.04.08

Last Breath Bruises, Sandra Backlund’s latest collection
words Penelope Shaw

Last Breath Bruises, Sandra Backlund’s latest collection, was inspired by the colour spectrum of bruises. The Swedish fashion designer’s Autumn Winter 2008 collection evolved from what she describes as “a dark story”.

Backlund had already chosen the colours of her materials based on the changing hues of bruised skin, when she suffered an accident in her studio. She inexplicably fell down the stairs, and bruised herself, ten minutes before being told a close family relative had died. “It was a very strange experience for me. I had a very strong connection with my grandmother,” says Backlund. “So this collection came together during my process of grieving.”

All 10 chunky knitwear pieces were individually handcrafted in Backlund’s unique sculptural style. She likes to play with contrasts, using voluminous knitted layers to shadow smooth, flat panels, and framing areas of bare flesh with thick yarn. Although the colour palette was derived from an image, the shapes were developed more instinctively. “I always use the human body as a starting point, and I build on top of that,” says Backlund. “I am interested in the way you can manipulate the natural silhouette with clothes.”

The textures vary from a repeating tulip-shaped pattern and ruched knit to oversized pompom balls. Backlund produces samples of these and experiments with them on a dressmaker’s dummy to create the final garment.

“I never know what the shapes or silhouettes will look like when I start,” says Backlund. “I don’t sketch my ideas. Everything I make is by hand, and I invent the pieces as I am making them. I start with small parts and then put them together like a collage.”

www.sandrabacklund.com

images Annika Aschberg

Last Breath Bruises, Sandra Backlund’s latest collection

Last Breath Bruises, Sandra Backlund’s latest collection

Last Breath Bruises, Sandra Backlund’s latest collection

Last Breath Bruises, Sandra Backlund’s latest collection

Last Breath Bruises, Sandra Backlund’s latest collection

Last Breath Bruises, Sandra Backlund’s latest collection

Last Breath Bruises, Sandra Backlund’s latest collection

Last Breath Bruises, Sandra Backlund’s latest collection

Last Breath Bruises, Sandra Backlund’s latest collection

Last Breath Bruises, Sandra Backlund’s latest collection

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